7) The High Sierra – One-Third of the PCT Completed

Here I am, in Kennedy Meadows South, the start of the High Sierras. One of the most beautiful sections of the entire Pacific Crest Trail. I had been really looking forward to this.

Before setting off, I spent two days in Kennedy Meadows South, resting a bit, doing laundry, satisfying my hunger, and preparing for the High Sierras.

Preparation

Preparation involves several things. Let’s start with food. Hiking in the High Sierras means being constantly in the mountains, far away from civilization. You’re in the middle of nature, and there’s absolutely nothing around—no cell reception either. If you want to return to civilization to, for example, buy food, you often have to hike a long distance and usually over a pass. My group and I decided to hike over Kearsarge Pass on day six, and then take a ride via a trail angel to Bishop to resupply. This meant carrying six days’ worth of food plus an extra one to two days as a reserve. And all of this had to somehow fit into my backpack.

Gear

When I started the PCT, there wasn’t unusually much snow in the High Sierras. However, during my time in Southern California, there were several periods of precipitation. Since I had been hiking slightly faster than most others, I arrived a little early in Kennedy Meadows South. Only a two-person group had started in the Sierras before us. From their feedback, we knew there was still quite a bit of snow. Microspikes and an ice axe were therefore indispensable. I had already shipped them to myself after climbing San Jacinto. Additionally, I bought Sealskin socks, which keep your feet surprisingly dry when walking through snow and also protect against the cold. For this section of the PCT, a bear canister is also necessary to protect food from bears. I also got an additional power bank, because I need my phone (using the FarOut app) for navigation and to charge my headlamp, as we would often be hiking at night. More weight, but necessary.

Kennedy Meadows South

There isn’t much in Kennedy Meadows South. For hikers, there are two main places to camp and resupply. At one of them, they serve huge burgers—the biggest I’ve ever eaten. And in the morning, all-you-can-eat pancakes. We ate until full to build up energy for the days ahead.

Setting Out

We were all a bit nervous (mainly because of the snow), but very excited for the coming days. Because of the snow, we decided to start hiking very early in the morning—essentially at night. On the first day, there wasn’t much snow yet, but we started early to get into the rhythm. The first day went fairly well. First, it was a gentle uphill; soon we saw the snow-capped mountains for the first time. After lunch, it became steeper, and we encountered snow for the first time. It was still quite firm, so hiking wasn’t too difficult. Soon, we went down a bit and found a snow-free suitable spot to camp for the night.

The second day was very similar. The weather was great, the snow firm, and again we found a beautiful spot with a fantastic view. We even made a small fire, which was very cozy.

Day Three: Deep Snow and Sunrise

On the third day, we hiked continuously through snow. The sunrise that day was particularly beautiful. We were higher up, with a wonderful view of mountains and valleys. Because of the snow, we realized we were moving slower, so we had to shorten our planned distance by 3–4 miles. That day, we experienced “postholing” in the snow—every step sinking deep, often up to the knees or even waist. Especially when the snow is soft or partially melted, it doesn’t support your weight, and every step becomes a small strength exercise. Progress was extremely exhausting and frustrating.

At the junction to Mount Whitney, we set up our tents in a fantastic location. Mount Whitney is the highest mountain in the USA (outside Alaska) at over 4,400 m. But because there was too much snow at that altitude and the weather forecast wasn’t great, Oliver and I decided not to attempt it. The mountain is not directly on the trail, though many PCT hikers climb it at night to watch the sunrise from the summit. Instead, the next day we headed toward Forester Pass, which is also very well-known on the PCT. Some in our group still attempted Whitney (unsuccessfully due to too much snow), and others were slower, so from there it was just Oliver and me.

Night Hiking and Snow Challenges

As we started at night, it snowed lightly for about two hours. The trail went through the forest, and navigation wasn’t easy. We repeatedly sank knee-deep into the snow. Near fallen trees and large rocks, the snow often didn’t hold, and we sank in. Fighting your way up hard snow with a heavy pack consumes a lot of energy. As daylight came and we no longer needed our headlamps, we emerged from the forest. The snow was much better—about 10 cm of fresh powder over firm snow. Slowly, we approached the pass. We could see a rock face, with a small couloir on the left and a large one on the right. As we neared the pass, it got steep. I led the way, as Oliver had less experience in the mountains and I usually navigate. I zigzagged up toward the large couloir. Checking the route, I realized something was wrong—we were too far right. I asked Oliver to look, and indeed, according to FarOut, we should have zigzagged 2–3 times across the rock face and crossed the small couloir near the top. We looked at each other, doubted it, then retraced a bit and approached the rock face. And indeed, there was a path we hadn’t seen from below. In summer, the trail is wide and easy, but with snow it was narrower. Still, the snow was good, and we could make solid steps, feeling safe. The 15 meters where we had to cross the small couloir went smoothly. Step by step, we reached the pass safely. This is the highest point on the entire PCT at 4,009 m.

Coming down the other side, the first 150 meters were completely white—we couldn’t see anything. But the trail wasn’t dangerous. Gradually, more rocks and trees appeared. Until the planned campsite, it was mostly downhill. The last kilometers went through the forest again, meaning we sank into snow repeatedly, as if the ground was being pulled from under our feet. We just kept going until we arrived. Overall, a long day, but we were proud and knew this would be one of those days you remember fondly. After pitching our tents, it began to snow again. Most people might think of cold and wet, but for me it was beautiful. I was well-equipped for the cold, and the snow made everything look calm and gentle. A snowy tent in the woods beside a creek—truly peaceful. I felt completely comfortable and enjoyed the moment.

Continuing the High Sierras

The next day, we crossed Kearsarge Pass, where we caught a ride to Bishop via an organized person to rest. The first part of the High Sierras was impressive, but we knew it would get even better—and possibly more challenging. Ahead of us were six passes to cross between Kearsarge Pass and Mammoth Lakes, all over 3,000 m.

To get back on the trail, we first had to hike Kearsarge Pass again. On the same day, we tackled the first of the six passes—Glen Pass. A relatively easy pass with a beautiful valley and frozen lakes on the other side. There are countless lakes on this section; most were still frozen. In some spots, water was visible. On that day, seeing the water, I had to take an ice bath—under the warming sun, it was perfect. After a few miles, we reached our goal.

Usually, one descends enough to camp snow-free and tackle the next pass the following day. The next day, we crossed Pinchot Pass. On the other side, at the lowest point near a stream, we saw bear tracks in the snow for the first time, probably from the previous day.

Next came the most challenging pass—Mather Pass. The steepest section of the PCT, especially with snow. The ascent was steep, but microspikes helped. Two-thirds up, we had to do a traverse. The pass wasn’t very high, but very steep. There were no tracks—previous hikers’ tracks were covered by snow—so we made our own. I led, step by step, slowly and safely, under the calm night sky. Reaching the top, both Oliver and I were overjoyed. It was a physical and mental challenge, but we mastered it beautifully. This moment will stay with us for a long time.

The remaining passes (Muir Pass, Selden Pass, and Silver Pass) were comparatively easier and each beautiful in its own way. Stream crossings became more frequent—there aren’t always bridges, only for very large streams. For other streams, you find your own way: logs, stones, or wading. Surprisingly, thanks to Sealskin socks, my feet never got cold. Stream crossings were thrilling, except for one particularly risky spot where the water was too high and fast—we couldn’t cross safely, despite it being early morning. We had to backtrack a mile and take a detour in knee-deep snow, which worked perfectly. On the morning of the seventh day, we reached Mammoth Lakes. What a week. Tough, but incredibly beautiful. The hardest section is now behind us, and one-third of the PCT is completed.

Some might ask: wouldn’t it be easier and more enjoyable to wait for the snow to melt before tackling the High Sierras? Many do. They hike north first and return weeks later. I asked myself the same. And yes—I would definitely do it the same way again. The experiences were simply incredible. Sure, you miss some views hiking at night, and it’s much harder. Often, you don’t do much upon arriving at the campsite because you’re exhausted. The experience must be very different in snow-free conditions, but I found it extremely beautiful, felt comfortable, and loved the challenge.

Now we head toward Kennedy Meadows North. Still snow, but less elevation to cover. And for the first time after almost 1,500 km, I change my shoes. With snow, stream crossings, and microspikes, my old shoes had taken a beating—it’s time for new ones. I wear Norda 002 shoes, which are incredibly durable and comfortable, available in Bulle at Trango Sport.

Unfortunately, both of my trekking poles broke, so I had to buy a new pair as well, ready for the next section.