9) „Hi bear“ & Oregon

After two days of well-deserved rest and several foot baths in Burney, we got back on the trail. The path led through dense forest towards Burney Falls – a popular destination, as the waterfalls are truly impressive. But before I reached them, I suddenly froze in place. About 15 meters ahead, a black bear was strolling casually through the forest. I had seen him, but apparently, he hadn’t seen me.

What to do? Just stand still and wait, or make myself known? I opted for the latter. With a calm “Hi Bear” (yes, I figured English might work better than German – haha), I made my presence known. The bear reacted immediately, turned around, and disappeared into the trees. Even 20 seconds later, I could hear the crashing of branches under his heavy paws.

Seeing a bear on the PCT wasn’t unlikely – but I hadn’t expected to be this close. Oliver was a few minutes behind me at the time.

After a short stop at Burney Falls, we headed uphill to our campsite for the night – with breathtaking views of the mighty Mount Shasta, a prominent, usually snow-covered stratovolcano in northern California. This imposing mountain accompanied us for several days, repeatedly appearing between the trees or over hilltops on the horizon.

The trail mostly led us along ridges, partly through snow, partly through burned forests – but there were also sections that were wonderfully maintained and very pleasant to walk on.

One day, I met Caro, a Swiss woman from Laax. She had already completed the section from the Mexican border to Shasta in 2022 and now wanted to finish the rest up to Canada.

A few days later, I saw another bear – this time at a safe distance. Like the first, it disappeared leisurely as soon as it noticed me.

On day 85, Oliver and I finally reached the Oregon border – California was finally behind us. Northern California had been both physically and mentally demanding: aching feet, countless blowdowns (fallen trees), monotonous and sometimes desolate wildfire areas, heavily overgrown sections, and recurring snow.

All the more joy to finally enter Oregon – a state known for its flat stretches, lush greenery, and unfortunately, also its mosquitoes. After half a day on the trail, we treated ourselves to a rest day in Ashland.

In Oregon, we began sending supply packages to strategic locations – mainly resorts or small post offices along the trail, as shopping opportunities are often scarce or very limited.

Back on the trail, Oregon initially showed its best side: flat, green, well-maintained trails – a stark contrast to the previous weeks. But this ease didn’t last long.

On the afternoon of the next day, it started to snow – first lightly, then increasingly heavily. Unfortunately, I wasn’t very careful, and many of my things got wet. Especially in the evening, it snowed heavily – I had to shake snow off the tent repeatedly.

Although we had checked the weather forecast, we had not expected this much snow on June 21. The next morning, we debated whether to stay in the tent or keep moving – despite the forecast predicting more snow. The way to the Crater Lake Campground, where we might find a cabin, was still long – with deep snow in some sections.

Nevertheless, we decided to continue. In some places, up to 15 cm of fresh snow lay on the trail. It was freezing, and we regretted sending some of our warm clothing ahead to Seattle after the Sierras.

Eventually, we found a small snow-free spot to camp. Luckily, my hiking pants, down jacket, and sleeping bag stayed mostly dry – a crucial factor on such a cold night.

The following day, we reached the Crater Lake Campground – where we could spontaneously take a cabin and dry our gear in the sun.

Visiting Crater Lake the next day was a true highlight – the deepest lake in the USA and one of the clearest in the world. While it isn’t directly on the PCT, nearly every hiker makes this worthwhile detour.

We continued towards Mount Thielsen, past snowy traverses and with impressive views of Oregon’s vast landscape. Here, we also reached the highest point of the PCT in Oregon at about 2,240 meters.

We spent the night by a lake – with a mosquito infestation like I had never experienced before. Setting up the tent, jumping inside, zipping it up – that was the only way to survive relatively unbitten. In total, there were about two and a half days where the mosquitoes were nearly unbearable – but that’s apparently part of the PCT experience.

The next day, we hiked over 50 kilometers through dense forest – without a single glimpse of a view. An unusually monotonous, almost meditative experience.

Then we approached the Three Sisters, a striking volcanic formation consisting of three neighboring peaks – South Sister, Middle Sister, and North Sister. The landscape changed drastically: lava fields, black basalt plates, wide barren areas – a fascinating contrast to Oregon’s green. The terrain was technically demanding, and our shoes took a beating, but the view made every effort worthwhile.

There were further snow passages around the Three Fingered Jack and through Jefferson Park before we headed towards Mount Hood.

On July 1, our 100th day on the PCT, we reached the legendary Timberline Lodge, located directly at Mount Hood. The lodge is a popular stop for PCT hikers. Skiing was even happening – in the middle of summer!

The lodge’s breakfast and lunch buffet is notorious among hikers – of course, we didn’t miss out. Finally, fresh vegetables, plenty of calories, and a bit of comfort.

The next day, we reached Cascade Locks and thus the border between Oregon and Washington. Another major milestone: the second state completed.

Now only Washington lies ahead – with significantly more elevation gain, but also some of the most beautiful landscapes along the entire trail.

Slowly, it’s becoming clear: Canada isn’t far anymore. And I’m excited for everything that’s still to come.