5) Luxury, Rattlesnakes & Constant Ups and Downs

When people think of the Pacific Crest Trail, they often imagine dust, heat, sore legs, and basic campsites. And yes – all of that definitely belongs to the experience. But sometimes the trail surprises you in completely unexpected ways. For example, with pure luxury.

I had the privilege of spending a night in Big Bear Lake with Michael – a former German who has lived in the U.S. for several years and recently started hosting PCT hikers for free. What awaited us there was beyond anything I had expected: a comfortable bed, a shower, a washing machine, a cozy terrace – and the highlight: a massage chair that revived all my sore muscles. And as if that wasn’t enough, Michael and his wife Mary Ann cooked for the three of us in the evening – and it was delicious. All for free. Just like that.

It’s amazing what some people do for hikers – how much hospitality and generosity you encounter on the trail.

A few days later, in Wrightwood, I had the luck of staying with another former German. Again, I was warmly welcomed; it was cozy, personal, and enriching. Two encounters that will certainly stay with me for a long time.

But luxury isn’t only offered by people – nature itself has its own. Two days after Big Bear, I had the chance to camp at the hot springs. Sitting in the warm water after a long day of hiking, surrounded by trees and birdsong, was pure bliss. No Wi-Fi, no electricity – but absolute relaxation. That’s trail luxury too.

This week, however, wasn’t only about warm showers and good food – I also had my first encounter with a rattlesnake. Suddenly, there it was, right next to the trail, calm but clearly visible. And yes, I was startled at first. But rattlesnakes don’t attack without reason. They warn you if you get too close – and as long as you keep your distance and don’t disturb them, they usually stay out of your way.

And the rest? As almost always: up and down. The trail is a constant rollercoaster – physically and mentally. Particularly impressive this week was Mount Baden-Powell right after Wrightwood. There was still snow, the air was cool, and the ascent was exhausting. But the view was incredible – dry desert landscapes, green forests, and distant mountain ranges. And afterwards? Back down, of course.

This brings me to a point that might surprise many who only know the PCT by hearsay: the southern section, starting in California, is not just desert. Sure, there are cacti, sand, and dry stretches – but also green forests, high mountains, and cool nights. The variety is enormous. Desert here is often a matter of definition.

By now, I’m not completely alone anymore. For several days, I’ve been hiking with three others – my little trail family. That doesn’t mean we always walk in a line – for example, I start almost every morning first. The early hours are among my favorites: when the sky gradually brightens, birds begin to sing, and the sun slowly rises over the horizon – hiking feels effortless. Around midday, we usually meet again, sometimes wait for each other, cook together, and set up our tents side by side in the evening.

My trail family includes Missy, an ultra- and marathon runner from the U.S., her son Carl, who works as a doctor, and Oliver, a young Norwegian from Oslo. We have a similar pace, and it’s just fun to share experiences, laugh together, and motivate each other.

Apart from that, I’ve already met many fascinating people – a NASA engineer, an older man from Zimbabwe, and even a couple hiking the PCT with a five-year-old child. Of course, they cover far fewer kilometers per day and probably won’t hike the entire trail to Canada – but just the courage to take on the adventure with a small child deeply impressed me.

Speaking of kilometers: I’m currently averaging about 30 km per day. But there have also been days where I did over 40 km – and others with less. We’ll see what my personal daily record will be in the end.There are also some unofficial challenges on the trail. For example, the 24-hour challenge, where you hike through an entire day and night, or the Oregon challenge, hiking through Oregon in just two weeks. Then there’s the 50-kilometer challenge – 50 km in one day. I probably won’t do the Oregon challenge – I want to take my time and enjoy the trail. But who knows – maybe I’ll try one of the other two someday.